We set out on our summer journey with high expectations and
a lot of gusto. We intended to climb several of the “50 classic climbs of North America” hoping to gain experience and some good memories along the way. While
this list is too mainstream for many of my hipster climber friends, for me it
is a challenge and a roadmap to some of the most beautiful places in America. With
our new destination of California set, we decided to make our way back to some
of the places we spent time in last summer. The first of our stops was Moab,
Utah.
Looking Glass Rock
Our two intended climbs here were Looking Glass Rock and
Castleton Tower. Both of which are Utah “must dos”. The first climb was rather
easy and enjoyable and offered great views of the desert. The second proved to
be much more of a psychological challenge than I had anticipated.
Slab climbing up a finger crack system
Taryn squeezing through the beginning of the famous rappel
A very fun ride down
The first two pitches of the Kor-Ingals route up Castleton
Tower were a breeze for me. I enjoy chimney, off-width, and crack climbing
because of their physicality. The third pitch is chimney climbing but it felt
like a different breed. The hardest part of the pitch was too wide for
off-width techniques but too small to fit my body in. I was able to climb about
2/3 of the pitch with relative ease but I came to a spot where the rock was as
slick as glass. With no friction or places to set gear I had to climb over 10
feet above my last protection. Exposed, tired, and angry that the rock wouldn’t
give me any friction, I took a 25 foot fall. This was scary to say the least. I
gathered myself and tried again only to take an even bigger fall. My ego and mind,
not to mention my knees, were in pieces.
Castleton Tower at dawn
An early morning desert approach
The view from the start of the climb
I ended up bailing on that route. We never reached the
summit. I was disappointed with myself at first because the climb was well
within my abilities. We had driven all this way only to be beaten up by a
tower.
Looking up at the beginning of the route
Looking back I realize how fortunate this situation turned
out. We are alive, unhurt, more experienced, and I think wiser. We were able to
know when to call it quits and save it for another time. This is a lesson that
I have learned many times before but every once in a while it is important to
relearn. I’m glad we know our limits and when it’s best to come down. I hope
that I continue to practice this lesson when the situation calls for it.
My brother always used to tell me how unforgiving nature is.
He would say that no matter what plans you make, they never fail to change when
you are in the middle of executing them. I’m glad he taught me this and I’m
glad I got to see him practice this on our adventures. Sure we didn’t finish
the famed Kor-Ingals route but at least we have some good whipper stories and a
few decent pictures.
We will go back soon
On to California!
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